Kengtung: Remote city of the eastern Shan state

by John B. Haseman

Getting to Kengtung is spectacular.  By air, the plane flies over an endless series of green mountains and river gorges, interspersed with cultivated fields and small towns and villages.  Overland from the Thai border the road follows a series of narrow steep river gorges, high ridges on both sides with hill tribe villages dotted here and there on the mountainsides and rare wide spots on the valley floors.  When one arrives in the broad circular valley in which Kengtung sits it's almost an anti-climax.  The green mountains recede but still hem in the valley on all sides. 

Kengtung (the spelling was changed to Kyaingtong by Myanmar's military government, but will be referred to in its familiar form of Kengtung throughout this article) is perhaps the most scenic in Myanmar's Shan State.  Surrounded by mountains and blessed by some unspoiled temple and monastery architecture, it is the largest town in eastern Shan State.  Laid out around Nawng Tung Lake, its architecture ranges from moldering old colonial-style houses to nondescript modern structures.  Its most distinctive buildings are several large Buddhist temples and monasteries.

For much of recent history Kengtung was closed to outsiders because of the pervasive influence of anti-government armies, several of which support massive narcotics production and trafficking in the mountains of eastern Shan State.  Kengtung was only opened to foreign visitors in 1993.  The first foreigners to visit the city in many years came on tours arranged in northern Thailand, and that is still the major means of access.  Myanmar Airlines flies to Kengtung from Yangon three times a week.

 Attractions for visitors include the unspoiled temples and monasteries of the city and the large market which attracts vendors and shoppers from the many ethnic groups that live in Kengtung and the surrounding hills. 

Kengtung is the center for the Kung minority group, which makes up about 80 percent of the town's population.  The entire region around Kengtung was once closely tied to the Lanna Kingdom of northern Thailand, and there are many similarities between the two peoples today.  The name "Kengtung" means "Walled City of Tung" and refers to a mythological founder of the city.  Portions of the city walls and gates remain.  The Thais refer to the city as Chaing Tung.

Right in the center of town is a group of striking 19th century Buddhist sites, Maha Myat Muni (Shan/Thai name Wat Phra Jao Lung) and Wat Ho Khong temple and monastery.  (Note:  Because of the cultural influence of the Shan and Thai languages, most temples and monasteries have both a Shan and a Burmese name).  The interior of the Maha Myat Muni is decorated with gold paintings on a red background.  The nearby Wan Phat Kyauk monastery features beautifully carved inlaid doors.

The most impressive of the town's temples and monasteries is the Zom Kham (Wat Jom Kham).  The tall gilded chedi is topped by a gold hti inlaid with dozens of jewels and hung with small gold bells.  The site is believed to date from a 13th century migration from Chiang Mai's Lanna Kingdom. 

There are many other temples and monasteries in the city.  Their spires and stupas make for a particularly interesting "skyline" above the houses and shops lining the streets.

Sitting above the city on a hill, Wat Phra That Jom Mon offers good views of the town.  And from a different perspective, the Catholic cathedral and Roman Catholic Mission occupy a large compound on the west side of town.

The drive from the border at Tachilek, across from Thailand's northern-most town of Mae Sai, is particularly scenic.  The route is being gradually upgraded and improved, but until the project is completed it is a rough road.  It is about a five to six hour drive depending on road conditions.  The route crosses a narrow plain before following narrow rushing rivers past a number of Wa, Akha, and Shan villages.  The town of Mong Phayak makes a convenient break for refreshment.  The road crests the mountains only about 20 miles southeast of Kengtung, near the old British-era hill station of Loi Mwe.

The Myanmar government has long-term plans to develop the eastern regions of Shan State in a quadrilateral cooperative program with Thailand, Laos, and China's Yunnan Province.  A four-wheel drive road rally back in 1993 followed the eventual route of a road connecting northern Thailand with southern Yunnan via Kengtung.  When this route is upgraded it will considerably facilitate tourism and business throughout the region.

Adding to the mystique of Kengtung is its reputation for being a center of the massive narcotics industry of the remote regions of the Shan State.  Happily, no visitor is likely to come anywhere near anything dealing with the drug trade. 

This "mystique" is far more evident in the variety of hill tribes people trading in the morning market, where the colors and patterns of the clothing of both men and women emphasize the uniqueness of this part of Myanmar.  The dominant Kung women wear a horizontally striped green longyi.  The Lahu women where black dresses with wavy patterns, the Lu women are noted for their silver elbow and wrist bangles and a black headdress.  The most colorful are the Shan-gyi (Big Shan) women, clad in yellow blouses, longyi, and a green-striped headdress.

There are several small and simple guest houses in Kengtung, but most visitors stay in the government's Kyainge Tong Hotel.  Accommodations are in multi-unit cottages, with a separate dining hall that doubles as the venue of occasional cultural dancing in the evenings. A short walk from the Kyainge Tong Hotel leads to the Nawng Tung lake, circled by a paved sidewalk and nice for late afternoon strolls.  The hotel has a restaurant, or visitors can try the few small open-front restaurants nearby.  Those with a well-seasoned taste for the exotic will enjoy the experience of rich Shan-style soups for breakfast in the main market.  Shopping is largely limited to the practical items of daily life.  A stroll through the market should provide several items of interest, from baskets and kitchen utensils to an occasional "antique."  Several small shops near the Kyainge Tong Hotel sell postcards and a few souvenirs. 

Perhaps the most meaningful souvenirs will be the photographs and memories taken home from this intriguing and isolated town.  Visions of Kengtung are likely to remain with visitors for a long time after a visit to this unique and isolated corner of Myanmar.

 

(Photos: click on small image to view larger image, then use browser back button (e.g. ) to return here)

 

http://www.mekongexpress.com/thailand/articles/kengtung.htm